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Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Perfectly Coned Tresses

Let's talk cones for a minute. No, not ice cream cones (although that sounds quite yummy), but rather, silicones. What are they? They're based on Silicon, an element found on the periodic table (hello chemistry), and they act as a water-resistant lubricant. Silicones, usually found in most hair conditioners as dimethicone, form a kind of shield over the hair shaft, sealing off the cuticle (making it appear smoother) and keeping out moisture (warding off frizz). They also happen to be used in shoe polish. (So, next time when you're out of conditioner, just rub shoe polish on your hair. Ha, just kidding.) So what's the controversy?

Simply put, there has been speculation that silicones will dry out your hair (Wait, what? Didn't I just say that it makes hair smoother and frizz-free?) Yes, it does, but some people claim that when they keep out moisture, they also lock in whatever moisture is in your hair cuticle. So if your hair has no moisture, it stays that way, meaning it supposedly suffocates your hair and prevents it from fulfilling its thirst. And also, being waterproof has its downsides. It doesn't wash off easily. A dull film on your hair? Lots of buildup? Yep, you've found your culprit. (Oh well, you say, that means I must look for products that have absolutely no silicones in them and condemn any hair product that does.) Well, not so fast.

The thing is, silicones work. (Duh, that's why they use it.) To a certain point. If you use too much, too often, yes I do believe it will not be good for your hair. (But doesn't that apply to pretty much everything?) So my advice is to use silicones...in moderation. If you condition every single day, you might want to alternate between a silicone-free conditioner and a regular one. And use a clarifying shampoo if you feel extra buildup. But you're not even supposed to wash your hair everyday anyway (every other day, at most). So you shouldn't even have to worry.

If you are to avoid any ingredients, I would suggest the following:

Parabens: These preservatives have an infamous reputation for being carcinogens and disrupting estrogen levels. Look for glucose oxidase or lactoperoxidase, which are natural alternatives to keep products fresh.

Sulfates: These are harsh detergents that strip your natural oils. Squeaky clean? yes. Dry, irritated skin? You got it. Look for decyl/lauryl glucosides instead. They clean just as well, without removing all the moisture.

Mineral oil: Ah, all you acne sufferers out there, beware. Two words: clogs pores. Look for beeswax. It moisturizes better but still maintains that buttery consistency you find in body creams.

Thanks for reading, and please comment!!

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